A growing number of aesthetic clinics in Europe, the United Kingdom, and parts of Asia have begun offering skin-rejuvenation injections made from polynucleotides, DNA fragments purified from salmon or trout sperm.
The treatment gained public attention after several celebrities including Charli XCX and Jennifer Aniston mentioned using it, leading to increased demand in late 2024 and 2025.
Polynucleotides are extracted from fish sperm through a controlled laboratory process. The DNA is then broken into small chains, sterilised, and prepared for medical use.
According to clinicians, these fragments may signal skin cells to repair damaged tissue, increase collagen and elastin production, and reduce inflammation. Clinics typically charge between £200 and £500 per session, and most patients complete a series of three treatments several weeks apart.
At a clinic in Manchester in November 2025, 29-year-old patient Abby received polynucleotide injections aimed at reducing acne-related scarring and redness. She told BBC that the earlier part of her treatment, which targeted the area under her eyes, reduced her dark circles.
The practitioner who treated her, nurse Helena Dunk, reported that many clients notice better hydration and improved skin texture, though results vary.
However, research into the treatment is still developing. Small studies from Europe and South Korea suggest improvements in skin elasticity, hydration, and scar appearance. However, dermatologists, including Dr John Pagliaro in Brisbane, Australia, state that larger, long-term studies are needed before confirming the full benefits and safety of the injections.
Safety concerns remain. The UK’s Medicine and Healthcare products Regulatory Agency (MHRA) registers polynucleotides as medical devices, but they are not regulated in the same way as medicines.
The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has not approved polynucleotides for injection. Complications reported in the UK and the United States include infections, pigmentation changes, swelling, and allergic reactions, especially when products are poorly tested or administered incorrectly.
A case in New York involved 31-year-old Charlotte Bickley, who developed an infection and long-lasting dark rings under her eyes after treatment in 2024. She believes the injections were placed too deeply and is still receiving care to address the side effects.
Industry organisations, including Save Face in the UK, warn that unregulated products and untrained practitioners are entering the market as demand increases. They advise patients to ensure that treatments are carried out by qualified medical professionals using tested brands.
Despite the concerns, many clinicians continue to use polynucleotides, describing them as a useful option for people seeking gradual, natural-looking skin improvement. Experts have stated that results differ widely and that no single treatment is effective for everyone.
